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6 Dust Collection Myths Debunked

By 2023-01-06 15:53:00 8 comments

There are many misconceptions about the science of dust collection. In this article, we debunk 6 of the biggest dust collection myths in the industry!

MYTH: The only harmful dust particles are the ones you can see – the smaller, microscopic dust particles are too tiny to have effects on your health.


False. Any and all dust particles are harmful to your health, regardless of size. While a single particle may not have an effect on your health, tools do not generate a single dust particle. Over time millions of particles filling your lungs will certainly cause health issues, just as larger visible dust particles would.

Industrial hygienists are most concerned about particles in the PM 10 range (between 10 and one micron in size). These particles can penetrate the deepest recesses of the lungs and are very difficult for the body to expunge, contributing to emphysema and other respiratory disorders.

It is essential to filter 99.9% of small particles. Collecting dust at the source (where it is emitted) prevents the dust from escaping to the environment or shop air to be inhaled. For optimal protection, wear a HEPA-level-effective dust mask and invest in a cyclonic dust collector with HEPA-grade filter media capable of filtering particles down to 0.3 microns in size.

Further Reading:

MYTH: Dust collectors work better at higher elevations where the air is thinner.


False. At higher altitudes the air is thinner (less dense). Due to this lack of air density, the dust collector does not move as much air as if it was at sea level. As your shop is higher in elevation, the effect increases. While the fan motor may spin more easily thanks to the lower air pressures at higher elevations, it will have to do far more work to move an equivalent volume of air. The effective CFM of any dust collector is lowered by 25% when above elevations of 4000 ft above sea level. In one example, a measurement taken at an elevation of 8500 ft above sea level (that of Estes Park, Colorado) lowered the effective CFM of a 2HP dust collector by over 35%. Therefore, shop owners at higher elevations will need a more powerful dust collector to accommodate the lower air density.

If you're searching for a dust collector for a high altitude location, you may want to consider one of our SMART Boost systems - they can adjust for differences in air density to optimize static pressure and CFM in high-altitude locations by spinning the fan wheel faster.

Further Reading:

Myth: A dust collector's CFM rating is what you get at each tool.


Usually False. Dust collector manufacturers publish CFM (airflow) ratings obtained through a variety of different testing conditions. It's common for manufacturers to publish "free fan" CFM ratings, which are measured without connecting flex hose or ductwork to the collector. This leads to inflated ratings that are not based on real-world working conditions.

When these components are connected, they increase the static resistance the dust collector must overcome to move air. This results in reduced CFM/airflow that the dust collector is able to pull through the dust port back to the dust collector. The smaller the diameter of the pipe, the less CFM will be delivered at the end of the duct run. Ultimately, the CFM you get at each tool is dependent on the amount of resistance against airflow (measured in inches of static pressure loss) that exists in your setup from such components. With traditional fixed speed collectors, this loss is more significant. Dust collectors with static pressure ratings of more than 20” of static pressure to help reduce the losses of CFM caused by ducting. When looking at dust collectors, keep an eye out for specifications that are measured in real world conditions (such as X feet of pipe/flex hose at Y diameter) to get the best idea of how the collector will actually perform at a tool.

Further Reading:

Myth: Cyclone separators work by centrifugal force alone.


False. Cyclones use both centrifugal force and gravity to separate dust. The dust laden air enters the cyclone and, using centrifugal force, the particles are pushed to the outer wall of the cyclone and slow down as they spin around the perimeter. Then, gravity pulls them down into the container as they drop out of the airstream, so that only the smallest particles and air are pulled up and go through the fan and into the filter. This is why it is important to vertically mount your cyclone; a horizontal orientation prevents gravity from helping with separation. Our signature cyclone shape is engineered for the optimal ratio of diameter and height, providing a class-leading 99% separation rate – even for the smallest dust particles.

Further Reading:

Myth: More horsepower equals more suction power.


False. There are many factors that determine the suction power of your dust collection system and the motor's horsepower is only a small part of that. The horsepower rating simply means how much work it can do - i.e. how big of an impeller can it spin (Torque) and how fast can it spin (RPM). While dust collectors with higher horsepower rating may have higher theoretical airflow ratings, the shape, design, and layout of the overall system will play a much bigger factor in determining your system's suction power.

It's important to remember that while it may not be visible, air is still a fluid. It wants to move along the path of least resistance, it's sensitive to temperature, it can be compressed (but doesn't like to be), etc. Not only that, but dust-laden air requires that a certain air velocity be maintained, lest the dust fall out of the air and settle within the ducting.

If your dust collection system is performing poorly and leaving dust on the tool, upgrading the horsepower alone will not remedy the issue - and it may be that you do not need to upgrade the horsepower at all! Start by examining for:

  • • Air Leaks: Locations where the air takes the easy road out of the system instead of working for you.
  • • Hairpin Turns: Sharp 90 degree turns and splits don't allow for the air to move gradually and instead create extra pressure, slowing down the air speed overall.
  • • Rough Terrain: Corrugated piping and hose can create air resistance up to 5x greater per foot compared to smooth-wall ducting.
  • • Clogged Filters: Dust collectors work by moving air but if the filter is all backed up then there's nowhere for the air to move to. Routine maintenance is important!

Further Reading:

Myth: Filters work better when they’re clogged with dust.


False. Traditional style filter medias such as nanofiber, cellulose, spunbond, etc. reach peak particle efficiency after they have been “seasoned” for a period of time to develop a layer of very fine dust (known as filter cake) over the media. Seasoning the filter leads to some suction loss but increases the ability of the media to filter out fine dust. However, a clogged filter does not get better. It actually makes the overall dust collection worse by restricting the airflow needed to capture dust at the tool.

In contrast, HEPA-Grade Media Cartridge Filters (like the ones sold by Oneida Air Systems) do not require seasoning. HEPA media works at peak filtering efficiency right out of the box and return to that level of filtration after every cleaning. If the filter is allowed to clog up, the dust collection system will experience a significant drop in suction, and may accumulate thick layers of resinous dust that stick to the media and become more difficult to remove over time. Frequent cleanings improve air quality, keep ducts clear, optimize airflow, and extend the filter’s lifespan.

Further Reading:

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Comments
Gerald Szeflinski 2023-01-06 17:42:38
good info.
michael kelley 2023-01-06 18:59:47
Is it accurate to say that if you do not have an accumulation of dust in your ducting the system is performing well?
Oneida Air Systems 2023-01-11 21:36:10
If you don't have dust accumulating in your Hose or Ducting, that will at least mean that you're maintaining enough air velocity in your system to convey the dust-laden air from the tool to your collector. However, by itself that doesn't mean that your system is performing well. You want to capture dust at the source, meaning you want a clean tool most of all.
Kelly Craig 2023-01-06 20:59:01
I bought a Dust Deputy [DD] when I was looking for a way to deal with the VERY significant amount of dust that was blown out of my Paint Shaver (it'll remove all the paint off a one square foot section of siding in about thirty seconds). I'd tried other solutions. Some, like a water pre-filter, worked, but were messy to clean up, which had to be done about three times and hour. I was so impressed with the performance of the DD (metal version, for durability on job sites), I bought a Dust Gorilla dust collector, a Super DD dust collector, and another DD in the plastic version to build a dedicated collector for my sandblaster I started playing with the configuration of my Dust Deputy [DD] and vacuum for the usual reasons - shop space, more ease of moving it and the vacuum, and to minimize the chaos, which comes out of dealing with the DD, vacuum, hose, and collection wands. I scoured the Net for ideas and found many examples of solutions others used: (1) Perhaps the most common method was to put the DD and its collection can on a cart, beside the vacuum. This still requires a hose from the vacuum intake to the top of the DD. Also, it takes up the same amount of room just sitting the DD and vacuum on the floor does. It did make moving the vacuum-cyclone system easier and offered opportunities for storing hose and collection wands. (2) Another solution frequently used is, putting the DD and its collection can on above the vacuum, then running a hose between the vacuum intake and the top of the DD. This approach is really no more complicated than building a cart to sit the DD and can side by side with the vacuum, and it takes up about half the space the side-by-side method uses, protruding hose aside. A disadvantage of this approach is, you are limited on how big a collection can you can use for the DD sitting over the vacuum. (3) In shades of re-inventing the wheel, I didn’t find any examples of the approach I took until after I finished building three. It involves modifying the vacuum by blocking its intake port, then drilling a new intake hole in the bottom of the vacuum collection can and installing a pipe that sticks a few inches out of the bottom and which stops just an inch from the top of the can. After the modification of the vacuum, its new intake port slips over the top of the DD. The weight of the vacuum holds the vacuum intake tight to the DD intake. Depending on the method chosen, accessing the DD collection can to empty it is a simple matter of lifting the vacuum [held in place by the DD and cart] off the DD, or the vacuum can be permanently secured to the DD and its collection can lid, so removing the DD collection can lid also removes the securely attached vacuum and its can. With the DD under the vacuum, you can go to a much larger collection can. I chose a 20 gallon [blue] plastic drum with a snap ring lid. One I built for a friend used a larger drum. I installed a 8" wide by 12" tall clear Plexiglass view port for easy monitoring of the debris level in the can. The port is mounted near the top of the drum. I shaped the Plexiglass by moving a heat gun all over it, until it bent to match the inside curve of the drum. It is held in place, on the inside, using silicone, which is also used to insure there are no air leaks around it. I installed the DD on the snap ring lid, at the outer edge. Then I mounted the vacuum to DD collection can lid using two 3/4" tubes and Allthread. The two tubes are cut so, resting on the DD collection can lid, their length holds the vacuum can level, as it’s sitting on top the DD. The two tubes are positioned opposite the DD intake (pointed across the DD collection lid, rather than straight out from it), and as near the edge of the vacuum can bottom and the DD collection can as I could get them and still keep them vertical (plumb). To hold the vacuum can bottom and the DD collection can lid against tight against the two tubes, I used Allthread rod through the tubes and into both the vacuum can bottom and the DD collection can top. The Allthread is secured via LARGE washers [to reduce the stress to the DD collection can lid and the bottom of the vacuum can] under lock washers and nuts. This method negated the need for a hose from the vacuum up to the top of the DD. It MAY have increased efficiency, though some say vacuums do not suffer that problem, like dust collectors and dryer vents do. I added an integral hand truck to both the DD and my Super DD using 2x’s. The DD uses a single 2x4 between the wheels (1/2" axle and 8" lawnmower wheels) and the handle. The Super DD uses two vertical 2x’s because of the size of the drum. Initially, I used scrap plywood and lumber to build a prototype cart for the version . That one worked well, but used a 5 gallon bucket, which fills up quickly, when, for example, using a large Forstner bit to drill holes in logs and things. When I upgraded the 5 gallon bucket to a 20 or 25 gallon drum, a cart was no longer necessary, since an integral handcart could be added to it, and there was no longer a need to support the vacuum by external means. Because DD’s reduce how much debris gets to the filter, so the filter stays clean far longer, I’ve found I was able to go to a smaller, but still powerful vacuum than I was using when not using a pre-filter.
Jason deak 2023-01-21 04:16:25
Share some pics? Jayswoodfloors@hotmail.com Thanks in advance, i like the idea of creating new intake and placing on top of dd, also the bug blue drum, did you have any issues with it sucking the container in? And did you need to install a line to discharge static electricity? Sometimes my 5 gallon zaps the crap out of me!!
Dave Steffens 2023-01-24 03:06:56
Great description of your invention - a picture would certainly help.
Bobbg 2023-01-08 14:32:07
How does humidity, winter months and summer months air presure effect a system, I raise the question because you talked about elevation if air presure from elevation has an effect then seasons changes also have some effects as well as the airs humidity levels, and shops temperature or hvac system, or an unconditiond space like a outside work shop or garage. Most people do woodworking at home durring the winter months shops do it year round. Should comercial shops be in conditioned space or is outside air better. Id relative humidity and air presure from tempture extremes. Its a valid question and should be factored into a systems preformce. Also types of materials prossesed, MDF creates a lot of fine dust where hardwoods tend to make more chip like dust and less fine dust.
Oneida Air Systems 2023-01-16 17:55:53
You are correct Bobbg, humidity (and any other factors that affect the air's density) also plays a role in the effective air performance of a dust collection system. Counterintuitively, humid air is actual less dense than dry air as the water molecules have less mass than air and will displace the air molecules in the environment. Humid environments can also introduce a number of other concerns as well, including the additional buildup of hard-packed filter cake from fine dusts mixing with water to form a "mud" of sorts. It is best to contact our technicians directly so that they can best design a shop with your shop, tools, and environment in mind.